As a member on the board of the Common Wealth Club in San Francisco I was able to join a 2006 trip to Russia with Commonwealth Club President, Dr. Gloria Duffy. This was a once in a lifetime opportunity to see post Cold War Russia through the eyes of a person who helped end that war. As our tour guide, Dr. Duffy brought us inside of the political workings of Russia and Dr. Duffy’s experience from 1993-1995 as the US Deputy Assistant Secretary of Defense and Special Coordinator for Cooperative Threat Reduction made her an unparalleled expert. In this role, she negotiated agreements with the former Soviet countries to dismantle their weapons of mass destruction, and coordinated U.S. assistance to these countries to meet those goals. She was awarded the Secretary of Defense Medal for Outstanding Public Service in 1995.
Our tours were mostly in and around Moscow. 2006 was the opening of the Ritz-Carlton in Moscow where we stayed. It was an old hotel they had renovated. I had lunch with the General Manager and we discussed the challenges of such an opening. One of the biggest hurdles of his was to teach his Russian staff to smile. In Russian culture, what we consider a polite smile is often interpreted as, “I’m an idiot.” But, being in the business that we’re in, and serving so many international clients a smile is worth so much!
The Ritz-Carlton had a beautiful restaurant on the roof of the building. Everything was booming in those days. I had not anticipated so much vibrancy. The women were beautiful and so elegantly dressed! They had stores with gorgeous minks! It reminded me of New York. They had discos and Japanese food had just been introduced and it was all the craze. I never expected to go to Moscow for sushi.
Dr. Duffy had arranged briefings from the U.S. Embassy, meetings with journalists and a tour of the Boeing Design Center in Moscow. We also visited Tolstoy’s house museum. It was exactly how he left it (his bicycle and writing desk in place). We visited the Carnegie Moscow Center where Rose Gottermollen (a U.S. arms negotiator) met with the group.
Venturing outside of Moscow we took the train to Saint Petersburg. Saint Petersburg is the second largest Russian city next to Moscow and the home of The Hermitage, the world’s largest art museum. Viewing all the wonderful art – it’s more than you can expect! You’re speechless when you see all of the magnificent pieces of art and architecture. It’s wonderful that they have kept it. One has to go there to appreciate the magnitude of creativity.
Back in Moscow we went to the Georgian Restaurant, Pirosmani. It has a splendid view of the gracious Novo-Devichy Convent. Founder and proprietor Tornike Kopaleishwili strives to create an “International Business Club” welcoming visitors and diplomats from all over the world to his restaurant and the food represents the best of Georgian Cuisine. The following recipe is from Pirosmani’s “Pectopah – 24 Best Dishes of Georgian Cuisine”
Georgian Chicken Mkhali
Detach the meat of a boiled chicken from the bones and cut it into pieces (save broth). Prepare the seasoning: ground walnuts (1 glass), then garlic (4 cloves), saffron (1 teaspoon), pepper and salt together. Cut dill, coriander, spring onion and salad leaves (3-4 leaves). Mix the mass, add grains of one pomegranate, 2 tablespoons of vinegar and some broth. Season the chicken with it and serve.
Great food is not all that’s offered at Pirosmani as the following video clip shows, visitors are invited to be members of a club — one that celebrates Georgian culture in the middle of Moscow. I’m not sure if my travels will ever take me back to Moscow, but the experience and the fascinating people I met made an indelible impression on me and I have a new appreciation for Russian culture.
Tags: Boeing Design Center in Moscow, Carnegie Moscow Center, casto travel, common wealth club san francisco, Dr. Gloria Duffy, family travel, foreign countries, geography, Georgian Cuisine, Hermitage, Maryles Casto, Moscow, Novo-devichy Convent, Pirosmani Restaurant, Ritz-Carlton Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Tolstoy Museum, Tornike Kopaleishwili, travel, travel agency, trips, vacation


February 11, 2010 at 3:01 am |
We were in Russian about 10 years prior to your trip. I will never forget the people, their intellect and their love of the arts. It was a wonderful experience….one that I hope everyone can experience in their lifetime. The Russian people are outstanding in every way.
Phyllis & K.G. Romine